Tag Archives: Australia

Circumnavigating Part 2: Sydney and The Subs

You know how sometimes on those red-eye, trans-Atlantic flights, 7 hours doesn’t quite cut it? By the time you’ve had your lasagna, watched Nicholas Cage’s latest, and, finally, lulled your brain into a state somewhat resembling sleep, you’ve got to put your seat in an upright position and prepare for landing. Sleep be damned. This is not an issue on the flight from London to Sydney.

Also not an issue: The condensation of time. I leave London Friday night and arrive in Sydney Sunday morning. Just go with it. “We’re not spending much time in Saturday,” Nick says casually. Nick is the amiable British guy to my right. He and his girlfriend, Kate, will be splitting five weeks between New Zealand and Australia. They ask me how I liked London and when I hesitantly say something along the lines of, “It was cool…” they inform (as if it is a fact) me that people in England get friendlier as you climb in latitude. Interesting.

In our stout Saturday, we experience Suvarnabhumi International Airport (and what is visible of Bangkok through the windows) as hot, hazy, and lush. The sun sinks into evening as we begin the second leg of our flight, after just an hour and a half on solid ground. Qantas serves dinner, but I’m still full from breakfast. Somewhere between Thailand and Australia, in the middle of the night, I look out one of the few open windows and observe a stupendous display of lightning: It’s bouncing off the clouds and it’s orange.

Stepping into Australia is like napping on that incredible couch you used to have in that apartment you used to have: Slightly disorienting but oh-so cozy. It’s just after 7 a.m. in Sydney and I am greeted by a chatty man in passport control and a smiling customs officer. And sunshine.

After arriving too early to access my first ever hostel room, I stumble upon Darling Harbour, by which locals seem unimpressed. I think it is beautiful. I can’t believe how many fish and likely poisonous jellyfish are visible right next to the dock. By 4:28 in the afternoon, I am completely exhausted and completely enamored with Sydney.

The hostel, on the other hand, is not doing much to win my favor. The girl at the front desk gave me the wrong change for my key deposit and when I told her, she had to check the surveillance camera to see whether my claim was accurate. They don’t allow alcohol in the building. I feel like I’m back in freshman year at Rutgers. Except there are five other vagabonds in my room, I need a swipe card to use the bathroom, and I’m pretty sure the bedroom door doesn’t really lock.

With sleep-deprived eyeballs, I decide to watch Drive Thru Australia because 6:37 p.m. is clearly too early to go to bed. I don’t make it much past nine, and am wide awake at four the next morning.

The Tim Tam Chiller’s one flaw is that it doesn’t actually have any coffee in it. However, by adding a shot of espresso, it is rendered the perfect way to keep cool in summertime Sydney. Another great way to keep cool is to roam the streets and let copious amounts of wasted energy wash over you: Every shop seems to blast the A/C whilst maintaining a literal open door policy. Not that I’m complaining–I think this is the hottest week that Sydney will see all summer, and at one point, I hover in the doorway of an under-construction bar and chug a half litre of water.

In miles and miles of walking, I note that people in Sydney are damn good-looking. And they look like surfers: sun-tinted. It’s funny, though, because I don’t think the majority of them are. I’m sure there’s some kind of statistic that reveals that while 98% of Sydney residents have, at some point in time, found themselves on surfboards, only 40% of them actually surf regularly. Surf mags are also surprisingly hard to come by. And they cost $9–$14 if you get the “Air Freight” [CURRENT] issue.

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My Official (Ever Incomplete) Aussie Beer List

In vaguely alphabetical order, kind of. New brews are in bold.

  1. The Bimbo Blonde
  2. Blue Sky Cairns Gold
  3. Blue Sky Woody Ale
  4. Blue Tongue Lager
  5. Bootleg Brewery Toms Amber Ale
  6. Bootleg Brewery Raging Bull
  7. Burleigh Brewing Co. 28 70s Style Pale Ale
  8. Burleigh Brewing Co. Big Head
  9. Burleigh Brewing Co. FIGJAM IPA
  10. Burleigh Brewing Co. Hassle Hop (GABS)
  11. Burleigh Brewing Co. My Wife’s Bitter

    Burleigh's FIGJAM IPA

    Burleigh’s FIGJAM IPA

  12. Carlton Black
  13. Carlton Draught
  14. Carlton Midstrength
  15. Victoria Bitter
  16. Melbourne Bitter
  17. Pure Blonde
  18. Pure Blonde White
  19. Big Helga (Carlton)
  20. Cascade Draught
  21. Cascade Green
  22. Cheeky Monkey Travelling Monk
  23. Colonial Brewing Co. Kolsch Ale

    Colonial Brewing Co. in Margaret River, WA

    Colonial Brewing Co. in Margaret River, WA

  24. Colonial Brewing Co. Witbier
  25. Colonial Brewing Co. Pale Ale
  26. Colonial Brewing Co. India Pale Ale
  27. Colonial Brewing Co. Porter
  28. Colonial Brewing Co. Dampf
  29. Coopers Pale Ale
  30. Coopers Sparkling Ale
  31. Coopers Light
  32. Coopers Mild Ale
  33. Coopers Stout
  34. Coopers Clear
  35. Coopers Dark Ale
  36. Coopers 62 Pilsner
  37. Endeavor True Vintage Beer 2011 Reserve Amber Ale
  38. 4 Pines Brewing Pale Ale
  39. Gage Roads Brewing Co. Sleeping Giant IPA
  40. Great Northern Brewing Co. Super Crisp Lager
  41. XXXX Gold
  42. XXXX Summer Bright Lager
  43. Hahn Premium
  44. Hahn Super Dry
  45. Boag’s Draught
  46. James Boag’s Premium Lager
  47. James Boag’s Premium Light
  48. James Squire Brewhouse Highway Man Red Ale      Continue reading
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The Trouble with Hostels

As I sit in Melbourne’s Tullamarine Airport, refusing to pay $6 for 30 minutes of wifi, and marveling that the explosive check guy asked if I was over 18, it also occurs to me that hostel people are a curious type. By “hostel people,” I mean people who genuinely like them. And by “curious,” I do not mean inquisitive.

I spent the last week in a hostel–my longest stretch yet. As you may have deduced, the word “snob” has been thrown at me from time to time: I fancy fancy beers and I don’t particularly enjoy sharing bedrooms with strangers. Judge me as you will. Anyway, I am calling seven nights in a four-person dorm a personal accomplishment. I wouldn’t say it was ace, but I wasn’t miserable. Sharing a room with three is better than sharing a room with five or nine. The Nunnery is clean and provides a [sparse] breakfast each morning. And there are lots of opportunities for socializing. The thing is, socializing can be frustrating in this setting, which basically amounts to an itinerant frat house.

Weirdly, my aversion has nothing to do with screaming, sloppy 20-year-olds. They’re fine. It has to do with the fact that people who stay in hostels always (okay, often) try to make your trip inferior to theirs. I had a guy from Indiana tell me, “Well, I’ve got the travel bug real bad.” As if my being on the other side of the planet–alone–isn’t proof enough that I enjoy traveling. Mind you, this was after he said, “You’re from Jersey and you haven’t fallen in love with anywhere here?” Let the record show that I merely said I haven’t [yet] found a spot in Oz where I’d be willing to work any random job to pay the rent.

I told another girl I’ll have spent a little over two months in Australia and she said, “Oh, a short little trip!”

Yeah, hostel people are weird.

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Melbourne. Rocks.

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Canberra is Way Cooler than People Say.

At the moment, I’m in Australia’s lovely capital, Canberra. There are no waves to speak of, but there is a pretty thriving bike culture. And loads of coffee. AND KANGAROOS! And I saw Limitless last night–it was pretty good. Everyone in America has probably already seen it, hey? Well if not, I recommend it.

I head to Melbourne tomorrow morning. Although I may or may not be running out of funds (please, please, give me a job!) I have decided that splurging on activities is far superior to sipping coffee in rainy dankness (ahem, Cairns). So, I’m planning to see where we lost our beloved Bodhi and take a ride on The Great Ocean Road. I’m looking for other fun stuff to do, too, so if you know Melbourne, throw some suggestions my way. Tanks!

I’ll have better updates for you soon. In the mean time, check out these chickens:

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How to Feel Like You Surf GOOD (Even When You Don’t)

Step One: Surf in Australia.

Many of Australia’s beaches are world-renowned, and I guess owing to the fact that Asia is so darn close, that continent’s tourists really enjoy this continent’s beaches. Now, Asians and I have couple of things in common–the most notable being unhealthy loves of both bubble tea and photographic equipment. And landmarks. Yes, those too. Accordingly, when you visit Bondi or Byron or Surfers Paradise, you will find lots of camera-clenching excursionists (I like that word) with a duty to obtain evidence that they were there. (I know the feeling.) Get ready for the best part: What cooler form could evidence possibly take than a snapshot of a real, live surfer? If you have a surfboard on the east coast of Oz–nevermind whether you are actually using it–you WILL be photographed by a traveling Asian, and then you will receive a grateful nod or wave. You will feel like a rock star. This foolishly unexpected, yet brilliant, bonus to surfing some of the world’s most famous beaches is, alone, worth the plane ride.

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anarmandaleg (WAX)

My first session here was at Bondi. When I got off the bus, I ducked into some news agent, figuring, Hey, we’re at Bondi; every shop must sell wax. I was correct.

However, I did not anticipate that when the guy rang me up, he would ask me for $4.95 (AUD, of course). I said, “Pardon me, good sir?”

He said, “Yes, you beautiful, young lady, I said $4.95.”

I scoffed.

He said, “How much you usually pay?”

“Like a dollar fifty,” I responded (scandalized).

Now he looked scandalized. “Well… uhh… give me $3.95.”

I said merci and chalked it up to a small store, a captive audience, and some good, old-fashioned gouging.

That is, until the next time I happened to check the price on wax, and it was still somewhere around five bills. I accosted my US-born, fellow surfer of a landlord and he laughed and simply said, “Yeah, everything here is expensive.”

Fair enough. At least I can say I haggled my first Aussie bar of wax. And won a 20% discount.

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