Tag Archives: surf

anarmandaleg (WAX)

My first session here was at Bondi. When I got off the bus, I ducked into some news agent, figuring, Hey, we’re at Bondi; every shop must sell wax. I was correct.

However, I did not anticipate that when the guy rang me up, he would ask me for $4.95 (AUD, of course). I said, “Pardon me, good sir?”

He said, “Yes, you beautiful, young lady, I said $4.95.”

I scoffed.

He said, “How much you usually pay?”

“Like a dollar fifty,” I responded (scandalized).

Now he looked scandalized. “Well… uhh… give me $3.95.”

I said merci and chalked it up to a small store, a captive audience, and some good, old-fashioned gouging.

That is, until the next time I happened to check the price on wax, and it was still somewhere around five bills. I accosted my US-born, fellow surfer of a landlord and he laughed and simply said, “Yeah, everything here is expensive.”

Fair enough. At least I can say I haggled my first Aussie bar of wax. And won a 20% discount.

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Masculine Ferry and Foam Boards

In wandering around Sydney and its glorious suburbs, I have been advised many a time to take the Manly ferry from Circular Quay. To MANLY. Seriously, everyone I’ve met has told me to do it. So today, I finally did. I did not bring my board because, quite frankly, I didn’t feel like lugging it on the bus and the ferry and for a walk of indeterminate length. When I got there, I learned that you could rent a foam board for $15/hour, which would be roughly equivalent to the cost of eggs on toast. Worth it! I love to Wavestorm! Who doesn’t? It’s like all the best things about surfing, except being able to turn your board and duckdive. Today, on my pink BZ, I was reminded how much those things occasionally matter–especially when there’s some freaky rip-roaring current and the sea is suddenly composed entirely of whitewater. And not to be a whiner, but just about every time I find myself on a longboard (or carrying one) I say, “Ugh. This is why I’m a shortboarder.” Not because longboarding’s not fun; just because I’m lazy. The boards themselves weigh about as many stones as I do, and paddling out is a bitch. Anyway, I have also decided that while BZ may be the Escalade to Wavestorm’s Suburban, Wavestorms are lighter, more maneuverable, and generally, better. In my opinion.

Stay tuned for the wallet debacle that is WAX in the land Down Under…

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Bronte Photos

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Mobile recon…

Nice drop. Somewhere in Jersey.

Thanks, Kel.

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Surf Mags and Hookers

Magazine hunting in New York City is kind of like looking for a hooker in Amsterdam (I would imagine): There’s a huge abundance and the variety seems endless, but you still may not be able to find exactly the one you desire.

Scouring for surf magazines is a game of pure chance. You’ll probably see Surfing at a newsstand here or there. You may find a SURFER at Barnes and Noble–likely the one at Union Square; maybe not the one on 86th. I think they order five copies and if everyone else in the neighborhood beats you there, you’re shit out of luck. The Surfer’s Journal, The Surfer’s Path, Australia’s Surfing World. All potential scores.

Yesterday, I braved the crazies and crowds at Union Square in search of copies of Transworld and UK Esquire. And look, when I say “braved,” I’m not being dramatic like this weekend, when I was hit by a car. I mean I had to wade through swarms of dazed and socially retarded people. One of them walked up to me, stared me down (at a distance of about 12 inches), and said:

“Nice legs.”

I kept walking. But anyway, I put some effort into getting those magazines. I couldn’t find Esquire but I did pick up Transworld. Annnd I also happened to stumble across Huck and Wavelength. !!! I snapped them up and hightailed it out of that God-forsaken tourist hub.

Every once in a while, you hit it big. Totally worth the weirdness.

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All good things…

I left San Clemente on August 30th. It was a Monday. I woke up early and drove down to the jetty at Oceanside, where I found not-so-excellent waves. Carlsbad wasn’t really any better. The water, however, was probably warmer than it had been all summer, and ridiculously clear. Initially, there was one other guy in the feeble lineup, presumably trying, like myself, to squeeze in a mediocre (but still satisfying) morning session. He soon got out and left me in the company of an enormous lone seal. Later, everyone I told this to would say, “Oh. They can be nasty, you know.” or “Seals attract SHARKS!” But at the moment it seemed pretty incredible. And it was definitely a first for me.

Back in SC, I returned my rental car and shipped some cargo to the right coast. I still had a few hours to kill, and I spent those hours surfing super fun waves with a bunch of enthusiastic, long-haired 12-year-old boys. It didn’t matter that the time I had alloted for packing and showering was fast dwindling; I just didn’t want to get out of the water. When I finally did, I’m sure I looked like a crack head: bloodshot eyes and a blissed out expression on my face.

Dearest California,

I think I might be in love with you. I didn’t want to leave you, but it was something I needed to do. Let’s make the best of this separation and reassess our situation in a couple of months.

Yours with unwavering adoration,

CB

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Tuesday at Trestles

Uppers blew up Tuesday afternoon. Check out the rest of the pics here.

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Semi Mixed-Up Midway Ruminations

Here’s some nonsense from the intern log I had to write for NYU:

I have sand in my car.  In the cup holders and the back seat.  I have sand in my sheets, though I just washed them.  I have sand on my bedroom floor and in my backpack.  The ports of my computer are jammed with sand.  There is sand in all of the pockets, of all of my clothes.  In my ears, in my eyes.  I’m sure there’s sand in my sinuses.

I arrived at LAX for the first time on a Sunday, around lunchtime.  I procured my criminally overpriced rental car and managed to find my way to the 405 South: what seems to be, upon initial inspection, the most unstable freeway in the continental United States.  The weird, grated concrete feels a lot less safe when driving a borrowed Ford Focus between hurried Californians hurtling along at completely unreasonable speeds.

With a sigh of relief, I pulled off the freeway into San Clemente.  There were literally surfboards everywhere.  I saw an old Porsche with a board strapped to the roof and fell in love a little bit.

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One Session. Seven Waves. with Brendan Buckley.

Yet another great little clip from Carmen Vicari:

Vodpod videos no longer available.

more about “One Session. Seven Waves“, posted with vodpod
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Earth Vibrations and BAC Weirdness

I felt my first earthquake the other night and it was frucking strange.  “Unsettling,” as the lady on the news said.  I mean, isn’t an earthquake unsettling by definition?  Okay, anyway… I was standing in my living room when the entire house started swaying.  Roomie numero dos said, matter-of-factly, “Earthquake.  We should go outside.”

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