Tag Archives: waves

Masculine Ferry and Foam Boards

In wandering around Sydney and its glorious suburbs, I have been advised many a time to take the Manly ferry from Circular Quay. To MANLY. Seriously, everyone I’ve met has told me to do it. So today, I finally did. I did not bring my board because, quite frankly, I didn’t feel like lugging it on the bus and the ferry and for a walk of indeterminate length. When I got there, I learned that you could rent a foam board for $15/hour, which would be roughly equivalent to the cost of eggs on toast. Worth it! I love to Wavestorm! Who doesn’t? It’s like all the best things about surfing, except being able to turn your board and duckdive. Today, on my pink BZ, I was reminded how much those things occasionally matter–especially when there’s some freaky rip-roaring current and the sea is suddenly composed entirely of whitewater. And not to be a whiner, but just about every time I find myself on a longboard (or carrying one) I say, “Ugh. This is why I’m a shortboarder.” Not because longboarding’s not fun; just because I’m lazy. The boards themselves weigh about as many stones as I do, and paddling out is a bitch. Anyway, I have also decided that while BZ may be the Escalade to Wavestorm’s Suburban, Wavestorms are lighter, more maneuverable, and generally, better. In my opinion.

Stay tuned for the wallet debacle that is WAX in the land Down Under…

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Bronte Photos

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Exhibit B:

Screen shot 2011-01-11 at 10.31.46 AM

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Science Fails Again & Rob Kelly’s “Film Duty”

Evidently, no one felt the need to place bets on whether Evan (that was his name, right?) was a surfer or not. I’ll just tell you that he… was… not. This experiment has gone poorly indeed. I have felt fewer surfer vibes since I decided to do this ridiculous thing than ever before, which is funny since the waves have been sort of massive lately.

Newly bionic Rob Kelly is beachridden–sorry, Rob–but on the bright side, he had some free time to manufacture this epic video:

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Film Duty, posted with vodpod

 

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All good things…

I left San Clemente on August 30th. It was a Monday. I woke up early and drove down to the jetty at Oceanside, where I found not-so-excellent waves. Carlsbad wasn’t really any better. The water, however, was probably warmer than it had been all summer, and ridiculously clear. Initially, there was one other guy in the feeble lineup, presumably trying, like myself, to squeeze in a mediocre (but still satisfying) morning session. He soon got out and left me in the company of an enormous lone seal. Later, everyone I told this to would say, “Oh. They can be nasty, you know.” or “Seals attract SHARKS!” But at the moment it seemed pretty incredible. And it was definitely a first for me.

Back in SC, I returned my rental car and shipped some cargo to the right coast. I still had a few hours to kill, and I spent those hours surfing super fun waves with a bunch of enthusiastic, long-haired 12-year-old boys. It didn’t matter that the time I had alloted for packing and showering was fast dwindling; I just didn’t want to get out of the water. When I finally did, I’m sure I looked like a crack head: bloodshot eyes and a blissed out expression on my face.

Dearest California,

I think I might be in love with you. I didn’t want to leave you, but it was something I needed to do. Let’s make the best of this separation and reassess our situation in a couple of months.

Yours with unwavering adoration,

CB

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Tuesday at Trestles

Uppers blew up Tuesday afternoon. Check out the rest of the pics here.

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Reef Road Flo-rida

Have any of you guys ever surfed Reef Road?  Looks like it gets pretty good:

And dolphin-y.

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The SoCal Learning Curve

Here’s what I’ve learned about Southern California so far:

It’s utterly packed with tacos, doughnuts, Starbucks, and – oh yeah – surfers.

June really can be gloomy, but these OC people know how to rally.  They’re all about the weeknight parties.  And being physically fit.  And making legal U-turns.  And also, being nice.  I mean, I’m not even one of those people who thinks New Yorkers are rude, but the kind citizens of San Clemente make them look downright cantankerous.  (Yes, cantankerous.)

Continue reading

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India’s Artificial Reef = Success

Surfline recently posted an update about the artificial reef in Kovalam, India.  When I wrote about the construction of this reef a few months back, the story was met with a lot of skepticism — and understandably, after failed attempts like Pratte’s Reef in California.  Anyway, it looks like ASR made it happen in Kerala:

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more about “Artificial Reef in India Creates Grea…“, posted with vodpod
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