Here’s a nice video from Eastern Surf Mag (via Expression Session).
Here’s a nice video from Eastern Surf Mag (via Expression Session).
I’ve been in my new apartment for exactly a week now. It is not a block from the beach, but it is a couple of blocks from Central Park–I can’t very well complain. I obviously have not been surfing every day, so I’m back to gym-ing and the like.
This morning, I ran (ok, jogged) around the reservoir in the park (ok, just part of the way). I got to play the “funcomfortable” game of Nanny or Mommy? which definitely helped distract me from the actual act of running. I discovered that once you get to the top of the reservoir, there is a really excellent view of the mid- and downtown skyline. Finally, and most importantly, I realized that the reservoir runners, who are of all ages and skill levels, employ a fascinating array of techniques, postures, and demeanors. In short, I don’t know if I’ll ever feel self-conscious about my form again. Which is a huge relief. I think I might actually like running in the park.
I left San Clemente on August 30th. It was a Monday. I woke up early and drove down to the jetty at Oceanside, where I found not-so-excellent waves. Carlsbad wasn’t really any better. The water, however, was probably warmer than it had been all summer, and ridiculously clear. Initially, there was one other guy in the feeble lineup, presumably trying, like myself, to squeeze in a mediocre (but still satisfying) morning session. He soon got out and left me in the company of an enormous lone seal. Later, everyone I told this to would say, “Oh. They can be nasty, you know.” or “Seals attract SHARKS!” But at the moment it seemed pretty incredible. And it was definitely a first for me.
Back in SC, I returned my rental car and shipped some cargo to the right coast. I still had a few hours to kill, and I spent those hours surfing super fun waves with a bunch of enthusiastic, long-haired 12-year-old boys. It didn’t matter that the time I had alloted for packing and showering was fast dwindling; I just didn’t want to get out of the water. When I finally did, I’m sure I looked like a crack head: bloodshot eyes and a blissed out expression on my face.
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Dearest California,
I think I might be in love with you. I didn’t want to leave you, but it was something I needed to do. Let’s make the best of this separation and reassess our situation in a couple of months.
Yours with unwavering adoration,
CB